An afternoon climb through Alfama's tangled lanes to the castle, chaining together the best miradouros (viewpoints), a ginjinha stop and a sunset finish — with the exact spots, not just the street names.
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Lisbon's grand riverfront square and the gateway into the old town from the Tagus.
"Start by the river; the arch leads up into the Baixa."
A tiny century-old bar serving shots of sour-cherry liqueur, standing room only.
"Order 'com elas' to get a boozy cherry in the glass."
The fortress-like Romanesque cathedral that has watched over Alfama since 1147.
"Tram 28 rattles right past the door."
The famous yellow heritage tram that grinds up through Alfama's hills.
"Hop on uphill to save your legs, or just for the ride."
A tiled terrace with the postcard view over Alfama's rooftops to the river.
"Best in the morning before the tour groups."
The Moorish hilltop castle with ramparts and the widest views in the city.
"Buy tickets ahead in summer; peacocks roam the grounds."
Restrooms inside the castle grounds, a good mid-climb stop.
"Included with your castle ticket."
Lisbon's sprawling Tuesday-and-Saturday flea market behind the National Pantheon.
"Open Tue & Sat only; haggle gently."
A neighbourhood pastelaria for a custard tart and a bica (espresso) before the last climb.
"Try a pastel de nata warm with cinnamon."
A pine-shaded terrace that catches the sun going down behind the castle.
"Hidden-gem finish — arrive 30 minutes before sunset for a bench."
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